Cork: The Sustainable Alternative To Hardwood Floors

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Cork is a renewable resource and has become a “green” alternative to hardwood floors. Cork is more than just a material for wine bottle stoppers and bulletin boards. When most people think about cork, they don’t think about flooring. Even though cork flooring is a fairly new phenomenon, its popularity is growing fast. It has been receiving attention since the early twentieth century. So what makes it renewable resource? Simply, the way it is harvested. Cork is produced from the cork oak tree. It is an evergreen oak tree that is native to southwest Europe and northwest Africa. The world’s largest producer of cork is Portugal. The bark is peeled away from the trunk of the tree and the branches. The harvest takes place in the spring or when the tree is growing strongly and the bark comes away easily. This can be done every 9-12 years when the bark regenerates itself. The tree does not need to be cut down to make cork floors. In fact, the average cork oak tree lives for 150 to 200 years. The bark of a cork oak tree can be harvested around 15 times safely. The tree has to be mature, at least 20 years old. The material only comes from the bark. None of the tree is actually cut down. In other words, neither the trees nor the habitat are affected or harmed when cork is harvested. The tree is replaced with a much younger cork oak. When you remove the bark, it doesn’t impact the tree negatively. A lot of other trees, like birch, cannot survive without their bark. The cork bark is removed carefully with a specially designed hatchet by hand in 1×3 sections. It has a 3-6 month aging process. After this process is complete, the cork is shipped off for commercial use. Cork is one of the most renewable wood products for a floor covering. These trees are protected. Only about two-thirds of the bark is removed from the tree. The tree has enough bark left to make a natural defense and to ensure a long life. The cork oak tree has a protective layer of inner bark. When the bark is harvested, this inner bark still remains on the tree. This inner bark makes it possible for the cork oak tree to survive after it has been debarked. When the bark is stripped, the inner bark cannot be damaged. It has to stay completely in tact if the tree is to remain healthy. A lot of people compare cork to bamboo for its environmental impact. As you now know, cork is harvested in a very different way than bamboo. Bamboo is cut down in order to be harvested and cork is not. A lot of people want to have a “green” floor. They usually have to decide between cork and bamboo. Cork is obviously the more sustainable choice. (Check out my article, “The Truth About Bamboo Flooring” to get the entire scoop.) The quality of cork can vary from one forest to the next as well as from one tree to the next. Also the amount of sunlight that it gets can impact the quality. So, for industry that purchases cork, there are a variety of things to consider when it comes to the quality of cork. The quality of the tree will largely impact the quality of the floor. A healthier, stronger tree will make a more durable floor covering. Cork is processed in a rather simple way. The bark is seasoned to create a uniform moisture level. Traditionally, the bark was seasoned on bare earth. If cork is drying in the forest for several months, it will be susceptible to microbial contamination. Often today you will see the bark stacked on concrete in factories. This is done to inhibit microbial growth. It is boiled to remove the woody outer layer. This makes the bark more elastic so that it can be flattened out. Then the bark is sorted into different piles according to its thickness. Each of these piles of bark is sorted further based on other characteristics. The bark of a cork oak tree is unique. Cork bark is made up of a tiny sealed honeycomb cellular structure. Each cell has a 14-sided shape. This means that there is virtually no space between each cell. These cells provide cushioning and insulation. For one cubic inch of cork, there are over 100 million enclosed air cells. Each enclosed air cell is 1/1000″ in diameter. Because of all the air in cork, it makes a very lightweight material. One cubic inch of cork can withstand approximately 14,000 pounds of pressure per square inch without breaking. It will also hold most of its original form when it has been compressed. If compressed up to 40%, cork will turn to its original shape quickly. The reason why it compresses and goes back to its original state so easily is because the air pockets are able to collapse and bounce back again. To put it more simply, if you take a balloon that is blown up and release the air in it and blow it up again this is more or less what is happening. When the balloon has no air in it, it is like the compressed cork under pressure. The air in cork gets displaced allowing the material to compress when under pressure. When the pressure is released, the air in the cork will go back to its original position. This is what makes cork a unique floor material. Now that you know why cork is a renewable resource, let’s see why people pick it as a floor covering. Cork makes a relatively soundproof floor. It works well in apartments where you have neighbors above and below you. Also, you will feel vibrations through this floor a lot less than with other flooring types. Cork flooring absorbs sound and vibration. If you drop a heavy object, usually it won’t impact the floor that much. If you drop a glass or any breakable object on cork, chances are that it probably won’t break. The impact of the fallen object gets absorbed in cork flooring. A cork floor is firm but not bouncy. The reason for the serious noise reduction from cork is because it is incredibly dense and has a unique cellular structure that is impregnated with lots of air. Cork also insulates well. It provides natural thermal insulation. Some people even say that they have cut their energy bills by having cork flooring throughout their homes. The “dead” air space in cork makes it an efficient non-conductor of heat. This means it reduces air movement. When you walk on a carpet, it is warm because it is not absorbing the heat from your feet. Differently, a tile floor is taking the heat away from your feet. This makes the tile floor feel cold. Cork doesn’t absorb heat. This is why it feels warm to walk on barefoot. One of the most prominent reasons that people choose cork is because it is soft ad cushioning. Cork is appealing to the elderly because it has shock-absorbing qualities. For people who suffer from back and joint pain, this is ideal. For kids who take the occasional tumble, cork flooring provides a softer surface to break a fall. It makes for a comfortable under footing. It provides relief for your feet, back and legs. The reason why it is shock-absorbing is because lots of air is trapped in cork. It is the same reason that it is relatively soundproof and absorbs vibrations. About 50% of cork is air. This is why it is a cushioning floor. Despite its soft, rubbery feeling, it is actually a durable floor that does not scuff very easily. Cork is known as quite a resilient floor covering. Cork has a lot of give to it. It is recommended for areas where there is going to be extensive walking or standing. Because of its natural resiliency, cork is commonly found in high traffic areas like government buildings, churches, libraries and banks. It is a flexible, relatively durable floor covering. An advantage to cork is that it is very comfortable for people who suffer from allergies. It does not absorb dust. Some manufacturers even coat cork floors with anti-microbial or paraffin oil treatments to inhibit the growth of mold, mildew and bacteria. This improves the indoor air quality. Green Building Supply Environmentally Friendly Home Center uses JointShield, which is a paraffin oil product. This is designed to impregnate the joints, making the floor watertight. This creates a strong moisture barrier. On the other hand, if cork floors do not have a protective coating, they will be susceptible to damage from mold and mildew. This will happen typically in kitchens, bathrooms and basements where moisture levels are higher. I highly recommend a polyethylene water barrier. Suberin is a natural, waxy substance that is found in cork. Cork naturally resists insects and termites because it contains suberin. This waxy substance also protects cork from rotting if it is slightly wet for a while. (Obviously, the amount of water on a cork floor should be minimal. It will get damaged if there is a lot of water on it, just like any other floor covering.) Its cellular structure doesn’t make it waterproof, but it helps repel water. With a proper binder, a cork floor can be fairly water resistant. Suberin is also fire resistant. It won’t spread flame. It also will not release gas during combustion. For people with sensitivities, cork is popular because it is formaldehyde-free. It does not give off gas unlike a lot of other floor coverings. Cork flooring is not a new phenomenon. However, new forms of cork flooring have come out in recent years. The newer varieties of flooring are tiles and planks with snap or click lock joints. Cork is even available in the parquet format. It has become popular because these new styles of cork flooring are easier to install and don’t use any glue. It doesn’t require a skilled floor contractor to install a cork floor. It is appealing for a DIYer. Most cork flooring comes factory finished with a topcoat of UV cured acrylic or a water-base. Modern manufacturing practices compress cork so that there are a huge variety of rich textures, patterns and colors. The problem with the colored varieties is that scratches and wear marks show up more prominently than they do on natural cork. Also, a lot of people have had problems with dark colors turning much lighter pretty quickly. Some companies mix rubber with cork to get special texture. In my opinion, this is not a healthy choice. Rubber is an off-gassing material that will emit gas for a very long time. The diverse styles make cork flooring very appealing for consumers. Cork floor can be tailored to the consumer. There is going to be a style of cork flooring that suits your needs. Cork floors are very easy to maintain. They only require vacuuming and the occasional damp mopping. Cork floors look nothing like hardwood floors. Environmentally conscious consumers favor cork. This is because they are not destroying forests. They don’t have to worry if the tree that was used to make their floors will be replaced with a new tree. Cork is a popular choice because if it is coated properly it is fairly resistant to scuffs. If it has a poor finishing, most people will be pretty unhappy because it will scuff easily. Some kinds of cork are not as strong and long lasting. Some varieties of cork can be so soft and squishy that you can carve your name into the surface of the cork flooring. This is not very appealing to some people because they know they will develop many indents on their floors overtime. If you decide to go with cork, it is available in unfinished or prefinished. There are three varieties for cork flooring. They come in planks, standard tiles and mosaic tiles. There are also a few options for finishes. A cork floor can be finished in acrylic, urethane or wax. These floors can be left in their natural color or they can be stained or even painted. Cork can also be solid or laminate.

Traditional panel cork floors are installed like tongue and groove. They are interlocking boards. However, there are new forms of cork floor that have been designed so they are easy for anyone to install. For example, Green Building Supply Environmentally Friendly Home Center has what they call UniClick, which is a patented European design. This is a style of floorboards that click together like a gigantic puzzle. A cork floor can be a floating floor. This is a glueless construction. The floating floor panel is cork. There is a stabilizing core above the floating floor. The stabilizing core is either made from high density fiberboard (HDF) or medium density fiberboard (MDF). The edges of the panels are milled so that they interlock adjoining pieces. The cork core is the next layer. This layer varies depending on the manufacturer. Its purpose is to provide impact absorption and insulation. The cork bark veneer is the top layer of the floor. It is either be a veneer from the tree bark or cork that has been processed to get a certain pattern or texture. The wear surface can either have a factory finish or a finish that the consumer chooses. Installing cork floors are not that different from installing hardwood floors. I strongly suggest that if you get a cork floor, use the manufacturer’s guidelines for installing it. This will always protect you should something go wrong. (Not to say that it will, but you always rather be safe than sorry!) I have read through the instillation instructions for AmCork (American Cork Products Company). They state clearly that you must adhere your floor tiles using DriTac 6200. They give specific brands of polyurethane as well. These include the product Traffic by BonaKemi or the product X-Terra by DuraSeal. If you use either of these polyurethanes, you will be protected under their 25 year warranty. In other words, if you deviate from their product suggestions, you will immediately void your cork floor warranty! There area lots of varnishes on the market that are really poor quality. They are not strong enough to hold up, especially some of the residential grade ones. The weaker the varnish, the more likely your cork floor will gouge. Cork floors can be installed on concrete. The underlayment should be 1/4″. Like any other wood floor, the concrete must be level and smooth. If it is uneven, you will surely run into problems. The moisture level should not exceed 3 pounds in a 1,000 square foot area. If you are installing cork overtop plywood, the plywood should be 1/2 and inch thick. It is best not to install cork floors over a radiant heat system. Cork expands and contracts a lot. In the summer when it is hot, their will be noticeable gaps in your floor, should you decide to install a cork floor over a radiant heat system. When you lay cork, you want the pattern to look unique. The best thing to do is open up all of your cartons of cork and lay them side by side from different cartons. The more you mix the tiles, the more variety of colors and patterns you will yield. You also want to leave 1/4″ expansion space because cork will expand just like other types of wood flooring. Also, if moisture levels are high, your cork floor should be installed rather tightly. If moisture levels are relatively low, you should lay your cork floor not too snugly. You want your cork floor to have room to expand when the moisture content level rises. If you do not do a moisture test and you find out the hard way that you have too much moisture, you will have to rip up your cork floor. If cork is laid on moist or damp concrete, overtime it will create a balloon effect. Cork will puff up or swell as much as it can. The fancier varieties and the engineered kind of cork have a paper thin wear layer over a cork composite cushion layer. If this layer is very thin, it will more than likely get damaged easily. If you have a dog, it may not even scratch the floor, it may gouge the floor! These types of cork should never ever be used in high traffic areas. The unique characteristic about cork is that the patterns tend to be so busy that scratches blend in. So if you do have a gauge or ding in your floor, you can use some cork filler and polyurethane. Moving furniture, dropping a kitchen pot or wearing high heal shoes is enough to gauge your cork floor. More than likely the ding will blend in. Like hardwood floors, cork is quite durable if maintained properly. It also requires a certain kind of maintenance. However, sharp objects will permanently scratch a cork floor. Unlike hardwood floors, cork cannot be sanded down. If the scratches don’t blend in, there is nothing you can really do about them. If you go with cork tiles, they are so flexible that the edges may curl up over time, not the topcoat of finish but the cork itself. However, if you have problems with a single tile or an area of tiles, they can be broken up and ripped out on their own. Smooth out the underlayment. Install a new tile. You don’t need to take up the entire cork floor! It is an easy D.I.Y. job for a weekend. Cork can be almost as durable as hardwood floors if it is properly maintained. If you go with a strong finish, chances are that it won’t scratch or gauge too quickly. A cork floor can easily be refinished but it cannot be sanded down to get rid of scratches. Once you have scratches, they are there to stay! A cork floor should last upwards of 30 years if treated properly. In contrast, a hardwood floor will last you between 100 and 300 years if properly maintained. There are both positives and negatives to cork floors. The most important thing to keep in mind if you are deciding on cork is your lifestyle. If you are the type of person that redecorates a room frequently and moves furniture often, cork is not for you. If you plop your furniture down and don’t move it around often and you like walking around barefoot, this might be a very appealing floor.

Restoring Old Wood Floors to Their Former Glory

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Restoring old wood floors brings back their natural beauty and shine. If you live in an old home, wood floors are a classic touch. A perfect way to add some freshness to your home is to restore your old wood floors. It can dramatically change a room and give it an updated look. For example, you may have a really dark and worn-out stain on your floors. You can remove it and replace it with a light stain. The simple replacement of a lighter stain will add some brightness to a once dark room. At the same time, you may even want to go a step further and lighten your walls to add to the overall brightness of the room. If you live in an old house, there might be something very unique and special about your wood floors. Some wood floors are rare nowadays. There are several species of trees that are now protected and cannot be used for lumber any more. Further, most trees that are used for wood floors today are fast growing and fast to be cut down. Many species of trees don’t grow for as long as they would have historically before they are cut down. For example, you don’t see a wide plank pine floor very often. Wide plank floors are almost always more than 100 years old. Similarly, you don’t see a lot of old growth pine any more in forests or on tree farms for that matter. Stylistically, tastes change. It is pretty uncommon to see an ornate herringbone floor. In current times, these classic floors add tremendous value to a home because of the rareness and beauty. No matter what the case may be, old hardwood floors are almost always worth the work to restore them. You may have moved into an old house and have the itch to restore your old floors. Maybe you have been living in the same house for a long time and finally decided to remove the old carpet to find old hardwood floors that haven’t been exposed in decades! Whatever your case may be, a lot of homeowners do not know when to restore an old floor or pull out an old floor and replace it with a new one. Besides, nowadays with the popularity of prefinished floors, not everyone knows how long a quality wood floor should last with average traffic. Your well maintained hardwood floor should probably last you one hundred years. In contrast, your typical prefinished floor with average wear will last significantly less than your hardwood floor. It is dependant on the type of floor, how well it is treated, and so forth. For those of you who don’t know, both engineered and bamboo floors fit in this category of floors that have a substantially shorter life as compared to a hardwood floor. Even though bamboo is extremely popular today, these floors are notorious for being prone to some serious scratches quite easily – no matter what the floor manufacturer promises you about the bowling ball finish. That said, it will be 100 years before you have to rip it up and install a new hardwood floor if you have a traditional wood floor. Of course, you will still need to maintain. Just because something lasts a long time, does not mean it does not require maintenance. Regular cleaning is important. For example, say you live by a beach and you often track sand when you come in your house, sand will in time scratch the finish on your wood floors. Shoes will wear away your floor finish so it is best to remove shoes before walking on your floors. Water will also damage your floors, causing them to swell and sometimes even grow mold. For more information on general cleaning, please read both parts of my article “How To Clean and Maintain Hardwood Floors”. The first part can be found at https://www.woodfloordoctor.com/_how_tos/articles/cleanpt1.shtml and the second part can be found at https://www.woodfloordoctor.com/_how_tos/articles/cleanpt2.shtml Old wood floors generally, if restored properly, will add value and beauty to your home. Usually, you will know when to restore your floor by simply looking at its appearance. Does the finish look warn or uneven? Does the floor look dull? Does the wood look dirty even after you have cleaned it? Are their blotchy areas or dark spots? Often, an older, well walked on floor, will have the most wear-marks where the most foot traffic has been. For example, if the wood floor is in a corridor or hallway, usually the center of the corridor will have the most worn off finish. Are there scratches in the finish or in the floorboards? Sometimes these can be surface scratches in the finish and sometimes they can penetrate into the floorboards. Do you know when the floor was refinished last? It is okay if you don’t. You be the judge and decide if your floors need to be refinished. If you think you are ready to sand down your old wood floor, you should read, “How To Sand Wood Floors WITHOUT Leaving Machine Marks” which can be found on https://www.woodfloordoctor.com/_how_tos/particlesshort/sandwoodfloors.shtml Restoring floors is not only about elegance and the longevity of the floor. Often is a question of hygiene. Sometimes odours that come off of your floors are unhealthy to breathe in. If your floors do not smell fresh, no matter how much you clean them, maybe you have a pet or maybe you had a spill sometime ago that was not taken care of properly, read “How To Remove Various Stains and Smells From Wood Floors” which can be found at https://www.woodfloordoctor.com/_how_tos/particlesshort/removestains.shtml Most of the time, all you are going to need to do is sand it down and finish it again. Not a big deal. However, if there is serious water damage, sometimes it is best to cut out that section of floor and replace it with new floorboards, depending on how bad it is and if extra sanding will help or not. Even if your floors have no finish left on them because they have not been maintained by the previous homeowner, it does not mean that it is time to rip out the floors. Sometimes, if you ask a contractor, he will advise you on ripping everything out and installing a new floor. The reason for this is simple: this is a much bigger job and he can charge more for it. Often, all you will need is a thorough sanding. When sanding your floor down, remember that it may take a good sanding because floors do not wear evenly. You will see a larger indentation or more wear in the areas where the most foot traffic occurs. Do your research. If you just recently purchased a home, ask the previous owners about the history of their wood floors. If they do not know, and have never finished them, chances are it is time to restore them slightly. You be the judge. If you like the stain, ask for the name of it so when it comes time you will know what to use. Colour matching stains is messy but possible. The more research and reading you do before you start restoring your old floors, the better the odds are that your floors will turn out exactly the way you want them to look. Even if you decide not to do the job but to hire it out to a floor contractor, it helps tremendously to know what you want and what to look for. Old floors are beautiful, especially if they are well-maintained.

How To Chemically Strip Wood Floors:

You may find that your wood floor has been sanded to many times in the past, and now is too thin to be sanded again. OR there may be a case that absolutely forbids you to make even a spec of dust (for health reasons or protecting electronic equipment) during the refinishing job, but still, you have to remove all the old finish to do a good job. This article will show you how to use safe, but effective chemicals, to refinish your wood floors. There are lots of circumstances that make sanding of a wooden floor undesirable. I first ran into one of these when I was asked to refinish a floor in a church. This job was to refinish the floor area called the sanctuary and the choir stall floors, about 600 sq. ft. The organ pipes were right above this and if the floors were to be sanded and finished the pipes would have to be covered, at great cost. Even covering the pipes would not assure their safety from the sanding dust, and the estimated cost for cleaning the would run into the many thousands of dollars. I was the only flooring contractor who suggested the floors be chemically stripped instead. I had just finished such a job for one of the church’s prominent members and my services came highly recommended. My experience with woodwork stripping included doing about 4 months of work for a friend spaced over several years. I single-handedly stripped about 500-sq. ft. of wainscoting, staircase paneling, banisters, baseboards, door and window surrounds, mantelpieces, and paneled doors. Believe me after tackling all this intricate work stripping a floor is easy. I priced the church job at $4 per sq. ft. As I was the only viable proposal, I won the contract to strip and finish the floor with 4 coats of polyurethane. It was here that I developed the multi-stage foolproof method. And as of this writing I have chemically stripped over 5,000 square feet of hardwood floor. This still remains a small but essential part of my business. I had figured the cost of material to be about $1.25 per sq. ft. (the finish being about only 25 cents of that). The rest of the cost would be labor and hopefully profit

Here are the steps that I suggest:

1. Determine if your floor can benefit from chemical stripping rather than sanding, is it too thin to be sanded again? Are there large gray areas that won’t come clean with the stripping process? You may have to strip the floor first and then sand out the gray spots. Based on the cost of material is your floor worth refinishing this way or would you be better off replacing the floor altogether? 2. Go over the whole floor and set all nails below the surface of the wood, but don’t fill them. You can do any repairs now, and sand them flush to make the stripping go easier.

Pet Stains on Hardwood Floors

Let’s face it, most of us consider our dogs and cats to be part of the family. We love them dearly but they can really take a toll on your hardwood floors. Never mind the scratches animals can leave on your hardwood floors, pet urine is actually among the most difficult types of stains to remove. It is possible to remove both stains and odors but it will require some special products and some hard work. Pet urine that is wet and new will be much easier to take care of compared to old, dry pet stains. If the pet droppings are relatively fresh, always start with picking up everything you can with dry paper towel. Next, use a small amount of water and some white vinegar to remove the stain and use baking soda to remove the odor. The fresher your pet mess, the better. It is not too much work to take care of fresh cat pee. Old cat pee, on the other hand, is another story! Old pet droppings that have sat on the wood for a long time may have absorbed into the wood. If this is the case, the floor may have to be sanded down and refinished because the odor is embedded in the wood and the stains are not only in the finish but may have penetrated into the wood. If you moved into a house that had dogs and still has odors, chances are that the previous homeowner did not take care of their floors. More than likely, your best bet is to sand down your hardwood floors. Generally, animal feces and urine will make your wood floors appear darker. Vomit can sometimes make hardwood floors lighter or darker. The color it stains the wood floor will depend on the acidity of the vomit. There are many products on the market but they do not work equally. In fact, you will see that bleach is by far most effective at removing pet stains. Today, there are many homeowners that have pets and there are many pet stain removing products on the market. Some of these products can do damage to your hardwood floors or simply not work effectively. A lot of products say they are good for floors but do not specify the type of floor. Continue reading for more information on individual products.

Product Review: Steam Mops on Wood Floors

Steam mops are becoming quite the rage these days.  They are seen on infomercials, sold at your local “home gadget” store and available through all of the major online retailers.  If you are unfamiliar with these mops, they retail for on average $100. These mops are sold as a green product because they use no harsh chemicals to clean.  In fact, water is turned into steam to give these mops there cleaning power.  Unlike other products that require cleaning solutions, these mops do not need anything but water.  This feature is obviously very appealing to many consumers who are used to buying a variety of cleaning products. They may be great for cleaning counter surfaces or grout.  However, the question many of you are asking is: are they safe for my wood floors? There are many problems with these mops when used on wood flooring.  Most brands claim that you can use their steam mops on hardwood floors.  The majority of manufacturers specify that the hardwood floors have to be sealed or finished.  However, some brands do not specify what kind of hardwood floors their mops are to be used on.  If a manufacturer does not specify the wood floor type, it is necessary to be cautious of purchasing the mop.  Even a sealed hardwood floor may have the occasional patch that goes unnoticed and is unsealed.  There is always a chance that the flooring contractor missed a spot when he applied polyurethane or varnish, especially in between the floorboards. Even though a steam mop is truly intended for use on sealed wood floors, some consumers have decided to use them on worn out wood floors.  A worn floor may loose its protective finish in high traffic areas.  Typically, a wood floor in a high traffic area, a hallway, will wear away faster than the floor in a low traffic area.  There are also areas where the homeowner is going to really want to clean because they are dirtier.  However, most people will not notice that the finish has been stripped and removed in high traffic areas.  Most homeowners are untrained when it comes to understanding their hardwood floors and will not be able to see if the finish has been stripped.  Many people see a high traffic area as looking dirty and may steam bare wood and cause serious damage.  No floor should ever be left unsealed.  Read my finishing eBook.  In it, I provide a step-by-step method of how to finish wood floors.

How To Clean And Maintain Floors Where The Finish is Unknown

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How to clean and maintain your wood floors if you have no idea what finish is on them.

First, if you have a new floor or prefinished floor read my other cleaning article first.  Unfortunately, due to gravity and the ease at which liquids disperse across floors, it’s all too tempting to pour and spread various useless and potentially harmful materials on our wooden floors. In a misguided attempt to fill in scratches, make the floor shine or nourish the wood, we bring home miracle treatments, which accomplish nothing more than to further enrich the retail and petrochemical industry. In this part of the discussion, I’m going to teach you how to identify your floor finish and give you realistic and inexpensive options on how to maintain it. If you ‘ve just uncovered a wood floor that’s been carpeted for decades, and you have no way to contact the previous owners to ask about the floor finish, you’ll need to put the floor through a few tests before you start messing with it. You should remove any wax first as this may skew the results of the many finish tests I’m going to discuss. I’ll discuss how to remove various types of waxes later. The easiest test will be a finish soundness test. Simply apply a few drops of water on the most worn area of the floor. If the water drops bead up and stays on top of the wood for a few minutes you have a sound finish. For a sound finish, water based cleaners (and waxes) are all right to use. If you find the drops of water soaking in or turning the wood dark you have an unsound finish. Water will further damage an unsound finish so don’t wash it with any water based cleaners. You can, however, wash an unsound finish with odorless mineral spirits, and wax it with a solvent based paste wax or, resand and refinish the whole floor. If you know there is no wax on the floor, you can use the orbital floor sanding machine, resand the worn areas and then recoat those spots and the whole floor. Refer to my article on the Orbital Floor Sanding Machine. It is most important to determine if the floor has been waxed. This may be not so easy to see. A lot of heavily waxed floors have fooled me. Take a piece of extra fine steel wool and wet it slightly with water. Rub it on various areas that you think may have been waxed. Paste wax will show up as a light gray smudge on the wool. Paste wax will also be removed with a rag wetted with mineral spirits and will show up on the rag as a dirty film.

Learn the Top 8 Best Methods to Hardwood Floor Cleaning

I get a lot of questions about how to clean and maintain a hardwood floor from two groups of people. The first group is lucky.  To begin, they have a new floor finish. This new floor finish will be either on a new prefinished floor, or a sand-on-site floor, or on a recently resanded and refinished existing wood floor. Mostly what these folks are missing is information on how to maintain that floor finish. The second group are people who have no idea what floor finish they are dealing with and should start by taping this link here. These people want to learn how to clean and improve the longevity of their floor. Most hardwood flooring contractors give short shrift to this subject. They usually mention washing the floor with vinegar and water, or oil soap, or they try to sell you some rather expensive cleaning agents supposedly meant only for hardwood floors. They will try to convince you that only their special floor cleaner should be used or the warranty will be voided.  Oh, what coercion!  So my task here is to set you on the right track from the beginning.

New Floor Or Newly Refinished Floor Maintenance

First, I’m going to refer to water based cleaners. These are the safest and easiest cleaners to use on a well-finished floor.  Well finished means the finish must be either 3 coats of oil modified polyurethane (no lacquer sealers please), or 4 coats of a water based finish (either a  one part oxygen cross-linking formula,  or a two component catalyzed type).  The pre-catalyzed conversion finishes (Swedish finishes) and moisture cured urethanes are also very water resistant. If the floor is in a kitchen or heavily used area, one more coat than is normal must be applied. A lot of poorly finished floors cannot handle any kind of water based cleaners. Be sure you know that you have one of these 5 finishing systems before you start to clean your floor.  I’ll assume that a pre finished floor has a factory applied conversion finish that is not a wax or oil based. These floors can be damp mopped with water based cleaners,  but not wet mopped! I’ll discuss this later. The best cleaning agent for a new floor finish is a PH neutral cleaner. Be sure you wait until your new finish has cured.  Oil based polyurethane finish take a month to cure while most water based finishes take 2 weeks to fully cure. Cleaners are available in various PH’s. This is a measure of their alkalinity or acidity. The lower  PH  cleaners (more acidic like vinegar)  will work on dissolving hard water and mineral deposits. So this makes vinegar a good rinsing agent but a poor cleaning agent. It won’t clean grease or dirt. Continue reading to learn more about PH Neutral Cleaners and how to use them.