This article will teach you how to repair a hardwood floor. Before you start, make sure you know a supplier of this same size and species of wood floor. Take a sample to your hardwood floor supplier that caters to tradesmen. The salesmen in some floor boutiques have limited knowledge, so you’ll have to find a hardwood floor specialty shop. Or a carpentry-cabinet making shop that is willing to do a small run of boards, if they turn out to be an odd size or species.
If you are repairing a prefinished floor, go to the dealer of that brand, in your area. If you don’t know the brand, look on the back of the board, it will sometimes be stamped there. Hopefully they will have the same size and color available in small quantities if this is a minor fix up of a few boards. You may find that the minimum order is about 20sq. ft. for most prefinished floors, nested in a box.
Unfortunately, I have found that as little as 5-6 years after a new floor is installed, some prefinished wood floor manufacturers will have changed their stain color just a little. Or if you are really unlucky the stain will have been discontinued or the company is now out of business. This may have a dramatic negative effect on the blending in of your repair. The solution in some of these cases is to repair the floor with unfinished wood, then sand and refinish the whole floor.
But the wise homeowner will have saved a box or two of the original material, and of course this will look much the same as the rest of the floor. The only difference may be a lightening of a dyed stained floor (dye stains are not very colorfast, pigment stained wood is better). Or a darkening of the finish or in a case of American Cherry, a darkening of the original wood itself, when exposed to sunlight. In all these cases it’s best to do the repair anyway, and let time age the new patch.
Then, take a good look at the run of the rest of the floor. Is it made up of long boards or a bunch of short ones? It will be your task to make the repair invisible. Using a pencil, mark off where you think you should cut the new joints in the hardwood, so that when replaced, the floor will look normal, not patched. I cannot teach you the art of staggering floorboard joints by the written word just use your artistic eye and imagine how much of the old floor you have to cut out for this effect. You may find that if the room is short it may be worth removing some pieces to the wall. But judge for yourself. Try, whenever you can to use the joints already in the floor, this will save you lots of cutting.
Once you have decided where to cut the boards, scribe a line on the face using a flat carpenter’s square. I use a sharp utility knife for this and go as deep as I can. Then using a very sharp chisel cut down on the line with the bevel of the chisel facing the waste side of the board; this will keep the line straight. You don’t need to strike too deep, as you will be taking out the wood in stages. Using the bevel side of the chisel down remove the first level of wood from you cut by angling a cut to the line. Always use a wooden mallet with a chisel. Repeat the cut and removal until you reach the subfloor. Do the same thing to the opposite end of the board. You can make all your cuts now if you wish and remove the boards later.
Remove the wood by splitting the board in thirds and the middle third should come free. If you got lots of space and courage you can use a circular saw to do this if it’s set for barely the depth of the hardwood. You can even saw out the boards by cutting across a few of them and remove all the little pieces. You will have to dig out the left over tongues and grooves with an awl, and use nail pulling pliers (www.leevalley.com #64K02.01) to lever out the nails in all the nooks and crannies without damaging the face of the good floor. Vacuum up all the debris and make sure their or no bits of waste left.
Start the repair as if you are installing the floor with the tongue forward and the groove toward you. Mark off the board by butting one square end to the start of the gap and pencil mark it on the other end. Mark it with a square and then cut, leaving the line on the board. Angle this cut downward ever so slightly so it will fit easier. If you have to remove a bit more wood, this will be easier to sand off, when cut at this angle. But it only needs to be one degree. The new wood will not always fit the way it is because of the groove. You will need to remove some or the entire bottom of the groove to fit the new wood where needed. Just break it off with the pliers.
If it is a prefinished floorboard be sure to bevel the end that you have just cut, using fine sandpaper. You will have to touch these up later, with the touch up kit they provided with this floor (the installers did include a touch up kit, with this rather pricey floor, didn’t they?).
It is best to plan the initial repair cuts in a way where the first replacement board is the longest and the rest shorten. This will allow you to leave most of tongue and grooves of the new replacement boards intact. But do what you can. You will have to face nail the last repair board (and others I’m sure) by pre-drilling or try a nail spinner (www.leevalley.com #99K20.01) Whenever you can try to blind nail the hardwood into the tongue, but the for last board, you have break the bottom of the groove off. You can easily do this with a pair of pliers (nail pulling pliers work the best). Then it will slip into place tongue first. Always use spiral-finishing nails, every 6-8″, which are set and filled with colored latex filler matching the final color of the finished boards.
I would even suggest this for a prefinished floor. You should be able to get matching putty filler for your type of floor. JUST BE SURE TO WIPE ALL THE EXCESS OFF BEFROE IT DRIES, OR A MESSY FILM WILL APPEAR ON THE FLOOR. When the latex filler dries on a prefinished floor you can see the dull spots of this filler, and these will need a drop of two of finish just in the filled holes. A lot of so called professionals repair prefinished floor by gluing down almost all the pieces to the subfloor, even some using two part epoxy. DON’T be tempted by this quick an easy method, it will create a dead unflexible spot in the floor, causing unnatural seams to form or worse yet a buckled floor during humid weather.
On sand-on-site floors you will notice that the new wood is higher than the original floor, so in almost all cases you will have to sand this flush with the old surface. This will be easy if you are sanding the whole floor, but a bit tricky if you are trying to blend in a small spot. Use a floor edger machine, and with the finest paper that will work (80 grit would be best) gently sand the repaired boards down flush. Use a vibrator sander to take the 80 grit sanding marks out, and hand sand with 100 grit until the area is really smooth. You will them have to determine just what your floor finish is (read my article in the Floored News about floor maintenance, the second part) and touch it up with the matching finish. This could prove to be difficult if the floor has been stained. You will have to purchase a few small cans of stain and try to blend in a matching color. If you find that this has formed a halo around the repair area, you have colored some of the old finish. You will need to remove some of the stain form the edge of the repair with solvent, a tricky job even for us pros. Some pros mix the stain with some floor finish to avoid this when staining, but I prefer to use the stain as it should be used.
Or you can avoid the sanding altogether, and use a scraper to level the boards. There is a new tool available at Lee Valley Tools (www.leevalley.com) called a floor scraper. I haven’t tried it yet as of this writing, but it looks promising. It’s a copy of an old design from 1911, and has a ball swivel adjustment that lets you two handedly scrape at any angle. Go to the web site and type in Prod. #05K21.01. It’s a little pricey, but it’s based on a cabinet scraper, not a cheap paint scraper. And I cannot remember being disappointed by any of Lenard Lee’s tools yet.
So there you have it I’ve talked you through (or out of) a repair of a hardwood floor. We hope to have a video (if we can find a sponsor) of this process, as not everybody can follow a written account of such a tricky job, but I hope I’ve done my job well.
You may have seen the Bona® Hardwood Floor Mop on a TV infomercial. The Bona Mop is designed for use on all wood floor types including laminate and hardwood floors. It competes directly against the Swiffer WetJet – a product that the majority of Americans know. The difference is that the Swiffer mop is not designed to be used on laminate floors, even though this cleaning device is commonly used incorrectly.
In case you don’t know Bona, it is a Swedish, family-owned company that has been around since 1919. One of the main focuses for Bona is to create products that are environmentally sustainable. In fact, Bona is GREENGAURD certified. Bona makes a variety of wood floor products. They are known for their popular waterborne finishes. The company motto is “Bona: bringing out the best in hardwood floors”.
After testing and studying the Bona Mop, the Wood Floor Doctor team gives it a thumbs up. There are several reasons why we recommend it. Every Bona product including their mop is made with a concern for the environment.
The Bona Mop is a green product. It does not require any batteries to operate but instead uses a spring activated trigger to release the cleaning solution onto your wood floors. Also, the cleaning pads are reusable and can be washed in your laundry machine unlike many other mops on the market. This is different than most other mops on the market where you can only use the cleaning pad once, throw it away and replace it with a new one. Another terrific aspect about the Bona Mop is its microfiber cleaning pad are gentle on your wood floors and should not scratch them.
It has a large swiveling mop head which is 4×15 inches, much bigger than many other mops on the market. It cleans floors faster because there is more surface area contact with your floors. It is also gentle on your body. The mop pole also has been ergonomically designed to fit your hand so you won’t stress your body when you use it. This is important because some mops are uncomfortable to use and hurt your body overtime.
It sprays only a light mist on the floor so you don’t need to worry about puddles of cleaning solution seeping into your floor. Some other mops squirt more than needed and consequently the cleaning pads cannot absorb all of the solution.
The Bona cleaning solution is safe for children and pets which is important because a lot of cleaning products are toxic nowadays. Environmentally, the Bona product is a winner. The Bona cleaner is a waterborne solution.
The solution can be used exactly how it comes. It does not require any mixing with water or other ingredients to be added. There is no use for a bucket. This mop has a chamber where it holds its cleaning solution. It is easy to use.
The Bona Mop does not leave any film or residue on your laminate floors, which means that your floors are truly cleaner. No cleaning solution is left behind. Bona even tells you on the infomercial that it won’t leave any dulling residue. Swiffer WetJet, in contrast, leaves a white film on wood floors. This means that your wood floors will actually appear dirtier than they were prior to cleaning them. When there is residue left on a wood floor, it makes the floor look dull.
Overall, the Bona Mop is a terrific cleaning device for an wood floor covering. The only minor shortcoming with this product is it comes in a few different pieces when you get it in the box. It is not the easiest mop to put together and many people struggle with it. If you are going to purchase this mop, give yourself a little bit of time to put it together.
Bona says their mop is the last mop you will ever need. If you take care of it, it may actually be true for you. 
She has a cleaning line, which is called “Clean”. In this line, there is a wood floor cleaning product along with many other household cleaners. The Martha Stewart cleaning line is partnered with Hain Celestial Group, a natural food and personal care products company. The “Clean” product line took nearly a year to develop. The Martha Stewart Clean Wood Floor product is widely available online and even at your local Home Depot.
Martha Stewart is not an expert on wood floors. She offers tips on almost everything! Would you trust her wood floor cleaning product? A simple way to determine if a product is good is to analyze the ingredients.
Her wood floor cleaning product is natural. The Martha Stewart Clean Wood Floor is
made with 99% plant and mineral ingredients. It does not contain any artificial fragrances or colors. There is no scent, which for some people is great while others prefer a fresh citrus smell.
One of the most reputable features about the Martha Stewart Clean Wood Floor is its certification by the EPA’s (Environmental Protection Agency’s) Design for Environment program. In fact, Martha Stewart’s motto in her commercial for her Clean line is, “Finally, green equals clean”.
Also, she boasts that there is no animal testing or animal byproducts used in the making of her wood floor cleaner. An important feature of this products is that it is safe for both children and pets alike.
The ingredients are very pure. Water is the base of this product. Another key ingredient is oleic Acid. Oleic acid is a plant surfactant found in olive and peanut oils. Martha Stewart’s web site http://www.marthastewartclean.com explains that oleic acid “helps clean surfaces”. It is not completely true. It is mostly an emulsifier which means that it binds the product together.
Potassium hydroxide is used as a pH adjuster. Even though it is used in small quantities in the Martha Stewart floor cleaner, it is known to leave dark spots on wood floors if enough of it is used. Potassium hydroxide or caustic soda is lye – the chemical which turns fat into soap.
Citric Acid is used as a buffer solution. This solution enables a weak organic acid and a strong acid to have a steady, unchanging pH level. Not only is citric acid a great pH stabilizer, it also is terrific at picking up adhesive on your floors (like when you remove a carpet from a wood floor, and there is that old glue left behind).
C9-11 Pareth-3 is a plant surfactant. It is used industrially as a metal soaking solvent or a degreaser. It is also used in the finishing and processing of leather. This is a foaming ingredient but you will not get the same amount of foam that you would get from a synthetic product. It is a terrific wood floor cleaner.
After learning about the product and analyzing the ingredients, it looks like a good quality cleaner. The problem with this product is its application. Martha Stewart suggests to mix half a cup of the cleaner to one gallon of water. Too much water on your wood floors will cause swelling and buckling. Water will seep into and absorb your floorboards. If you want to clean your floors, not damage your floors, using water is not your answer! In fact, it will void your floor warranty in almost all cases.
Even if you will get a shiny floor with no streaks or residue, you may want to think twice before using the Martha Stewart wood floor cleaner. No matter how pure and green the Martha Stewart Clean product is, if you have to mix it with water, the simple answer is: don’t do it! But if you must, use only distilled water. 
Laminate floor is not a wood floor but may have the fake wood look. Laminate flooring may be a problem depending on the kind you get. Laminate flooring is not all made equal. They have differing levels of VOCs. They are easy to clean and dust free. If you are going to get a laminate floor, be sure to get one with low VOCs. The same goes for bamboo flooring. It is a terrific floor for allergies but some varieties have high VOCs while others have low ones. If you opt for a bamboo floor, go for one with low VOCs.
You probably have heard about dust mites but you may not actually know what they are. They are tiny microscopic insects – so small that you cannot even see them! You can find droppings on things like clothes and carpets. A reason to keep your carpets very clean.
When it comes to renovations, sanding is always going to create sawdust no way around it! However, when it comes to wood floor finishes, there are a lot of choices. Keep in mind, many of these products emit odors that contribute to allergies. It is best to make sure that you are using a wood floor finish with low VOCs (volatile organic compounds). VOCs can trigger allergies.
In conclusion, make sure to keep your floors clean. A sealed wood floor without cracks and gaps will not collect dust the same way a carpet will. If you have an area rug, make sure to wash it regularly. 
If you decide to go with bamboo flooring, there are some varieties that are better.
Many people who have strand woven bamboo floors are happy with them. Strand woven bamboo flooring complies with European standards of quality because most of the equipment comes from Germany. (This doesn’t mean that how and where the bamboo is grown for this type of flooring complies with American and European standards.)
Strand woven bamboo floors are produced by stripping young Moso or Mao bamboo stalks. This particular part of the process is environmentally friendly because 100% of the harvested stalk is used. There is zero waste.
The stalks are boiled in a water and boric acid solution. This removes sugars from the stalks which is necessary because sugars attract termites. This boiling process also stops the growth of fungus and mold. Any insects in the bamboo will be removed. Often, copper sulfate is used to kill any micro-organisms. This stuff is incredibly toxic.
Then the strips are dried and woven with an extremely low Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) plasticizer or glue. The woven strand is crushed in a 2000-ton heat press and now becomes a strand woven board. This strand woven board is then milled in a laser-guided mill that accurately cuts each board.
Every board you receive in your carton should be uniform. After the boards are milled, they are sanded and coated with an aluminum oxide finish.
Strand woven bamboo is different than other bamboo flooring because it is a one-piece board. A lot of the other stuff is produced by cold-gluing small bamboo strips together. It is tongue and groove. Strand woven bamboo flooring can be installed like any hardwood floor. It is much stronger than other bamboo flooring types. Strand woven bamboo flooring is easy to refinish.
Like all bamboo though, it emits formaldehyde, even if the levels might be slightly lower. Strand bamboo currently uses phenol formaldehyde adhesive and there is no other alternative. It is known to splinter on the sides of the boards.
Many of the sales pitches will compare traditional bamboo floors to hardwood floors. One of the most common claims about bamboo flooring is that it is actually harder than hardwood floors.
Some companies will even show statistics on the hardness of bamboo compared to hardwoods. Some make ridiculous claims like “bamboo is actually harder than oak”! It is much softer than oak!
Bamboo is not as hard as the floor manufacturers claim. A lot of people look at the Janka Hardness Test as a means to justify and explain the durability of bamboo flooring.
If you look at many of the Janka Hardness Test online, you will see that bamboo largely fluctuates. It is actually rated at 1180 p.s.i. However, some tests put bamboo higher up in the Janka Hardness Test, making it appear stronger than it actually is.
You should be very weary of these skewed test results, especially when they are coming from manufacturers who our out to sell you bamboo floor coverings. These manufacturers want to make bamboo look as hard as possible.
A lot of the skewed results will test the hardest parts of the wood like the joints, edges and knots. (Bamboo doesn’t have any knots but you get my drift.)
Many people will bend the rules of the test to make bamboo look strong. They may use the highest quality bamboo even though most of the bamboo available to the public is young and soft.
One of the most prominent examples of bamboo’s threat to biodiversity is the giant panda. The panda bear is losing its habitat to bamboo plantations rapidly. Forests are being logged and cleared for bamboo. The panda bear is on the endangered species list because of the growing market for bamboo in North America.
Bamboo is sold as a fast-growing grass that doesn’t even require any fertilizers. This may be true on a very small scale. But, to keep up with American demand for bamboo products, fertilizers are being used widely to get a larger yield.
This claim about not using any fertilizers doesn’t hold any truth. If they didn’t use any fertilizers, they would not be producing bamboo floor coverings as fast as they are! The pesticides and fertilizers have a huge impact on the environment.
The Chinese most often don’t even comply with American or European standards when it comes to the production of bamboo. This means that the fertilizers and pesticides that are used in the production of bamboo are not monitored.
Here is the proof: The FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) has only certified one bamboo flooring company as of recently. (The only company the FSC has certified is Smith & Fong.) This means that how bamboo is grown and processed is not regulated at all.
Most forest lands are on hilly and mountainous terrains with steep slopes. When they clear cut a forest to plant bamboo, they are actually increasing erosion until the bamboo becomes fairly mature. Even though they may say they are working harmoniously with nature, they are clearly disrupting ecosystems.
Herringbone in the traditional 2″ by 9″ by 3/4″ or larger patterns is the most elegant of all the glue down hardwood floors. Reasonably priced material, it is very labour intensive to install. When this floor is sanded and stained it produces a stunning light-dark effect as you site down the rows. A miniature version of this is the square edged parquet using 1″ by 4″ by 5/16″ slats to make the herringbone pattern. It comes mesh backed and is simple to install. Avoid the larger 3/8″ by 9″ square edged material, it is prone to warping and twisting in place. I’ve also yet to see an acceptable prefinished parquet except beveled edged versions of the block floor. 
